I mentioned earlier the politics, esthetics, and ethics of food. But to speak of the pleasure of eating is to go beyond those categories. Eating with the fullest pleasure — pleasure, that is, that does not depend on ignorance — is perhaps the profoundest enactment of our connection with the world. In this pleasure we experience and celebrate our dependence and our gratitude, for we are living from mystery, from creatures we did not make and powers we cannot comprehend. ~Wendell Berry

Wednesday, July 27, 2011

Food for Thought

The OECD (Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development) recently published an interesting study on social indicators.  I was intrigued by the stats related to unpaid work (essentially, household work).

Among member countries (see below), Americans spend the least amount of time per day cooking and cleaning up (30 minutes on average), and the third lowest amount of time eating (74 minutes).  The OECD average is 50 and 101, respectively.  Give it up for the Turks, who average 74 minutes of cooking per day.

The American rate of participation itself--how many people cook, period--is also low.  This category led to some interesting stats.  For example, less than half of adults in India cook, but those who do spend almost three hours in the kitchen per day.  A large majority of the population in Denmark and Norway cook, but only for about an hour per day.  I assume these differences have a lot to do with traditional household structures (or lack thereof).

In other news, the French and Germans shop a lot, the Swiss live long, the Dutch trust people, and Icelanders have the highest rate of positive experiences (feeling well-rested, being treated with respect, smiling, experiencing enjoyment, etc.).


Member countries in the OECD:


Belgium
Denmark
Germany
South Africa
France
Netherlands
Finland
Norway
UnitedKKingdom
Italy
Spain
Hungary
Poland
Australia
Ireland
OECD
Korea
India
Turkey
Sweden
Slovenia
United States
New Zealand
China
Austria
Estonia
Canada
Portugal
Japan
Mexico

Saturday, July 23, 2011

Green Beans Galore

This morning I headed out to a friend's family's small farm in Michigan.  Thanks to their generosity, another gal and I each came back with two buckets full of green beans after about an hour and a half of work.  This afternoon I've been blanching and freezing them.  One thing I like to do with fresh beans is to make Szechuan Green Beans like they serve at J. W. Chen's (see the previous post).  I actually didn't remember the name of the dish when I tried to replicate it, but it turns out that what I did is pretty similar to recipes online.  You'll also find my attempt at their Honey Chicken later in this post.


Green Beans à la Mrs. Chen's
  • 12 oz. fresh green beans (there's no good reason for that quantity, it's simply the amount I happened to get from CSA last week)
  • 1-2 T sesame oil
  • 4 cloves garlic, sliced
  • 1 tsp. fresh ginger
  • 1 tsp. soy sauce
  • 1 tsp. fish sauce
  • 1/2 tsp. rice vinegar
  • 1 tsp. sugar
  • 1 tsp. sherry
  • 1/4 tsp. sesame seeds
  • 1/4 tsp. red pepper flakes

Heat oil in saucepan on medium-high. Add garlic and ginger and sauté for one minute. Add green beans and cook, stirring frequently, until they are dark green and crisp-tender.  Stir in remaining ingredients and continue to heat for a minute or two.


Honey Chicken à la Mrs. Chen's 



For this, I started with an online recipe but made some major adjustments.  The sauce would easily work with stir-fried chicken instead of batter-fried.

  • 1 1/2 lbs. boneless, skinless chicken, cut into 1" pieces
  • oil for deep frying
Batter:
  • 1/4 cup corn starch
  • 1/4 cup flour
  • 1 tsp. baking powder
  • 1/2 tsp. salt
  • 1 egg
  • 1 egg white
  • 1/2 cup water
Sauce (some of the amounts are approximate; I was unaware of exactly how much I added of various things):
  • 1 1/2 T. oil
  • 1 T. ginger, minced
  • 3 T. garlic, minced
  • 1 tsp. salt
  • 1/4 c. honey
  • 3/4 c. water
  • 1/2 c. brown sugar
  • 1 T. rice wine vinegar
  • 2 tsp. soy sauce
  • 1 T. cornstarch, mixed with 1 T. water
  • Sesame seeds (to garnish)
1. Mix all ingredients for batter, cover, and let sit for 30 minutes.  Be ye not surprised, it will be fairly thin.
2. Heat oil to 350 degrees.  Coat chicken with batter and deep fry in batches until thoroughly cooked and golden.  Drain on paper towels.
3. To make sauce, saute ginger and garlic in the oil in a medium saucepan.  Mix in all remaining ingredients except cornstarch, stirring well.  Add cornstarch mixture and simmer until thick.
4. Coat chicken with sauce, and garnish with sesame seeds.  Accompany with rice.

Serves 4.




Monday, July 18, 2011

Summer's in full swing!

As if the 100 degree heat index wasn't signal enough, it's clear from the abundance at the farmers' market that summer has arrived in the Bend.  My most recent CSA batch came with some new produce for the season--cucumbers, zucchini, carrots, green beans, and onions.  The tomatoes have really taken off in our community garden, and I spied an almost fully grown zucchini today, along with a couple small peppers and yellow squash.  (I promise I'll get a photo up! Unfortunately, my camera and computer have had a slight tiff and are refusing to speak to each other at the moment.)  A friend's little brother even discovered some wild black raspberries growing nearby when he was visiting.  I think I've managed to beat the birds to them, so far.

Last week a few of us went to the Blueberry Ranch, a local joint that advertises itself as the largest organic blueberry farm in the Midwest.  We each picked a bucket or so, with most of them winding up in the freezer, if not muffins, cobbler, or pie.  Nothing says delicious like having a stock of blueberries a few feet away!

Look forward to an upcoming post about replicating the Szechuan Green Beans and Honey Chicken at one of our best local restaurants, J. W. Chen's, known affectionately to those in my program as "Mrs. Chen's" or "Madame Chen's." (I wonder why no one has suggested Frau Chen's, yet?)  In the meantime, here are a few of my favorite recipes from around the interwebs.

Forty-Four Clove Garlic Soup

Bourbon Chicken

Wheat Bread with Flax Seed (There seems to be a typo--I increase the wheat flour to 2 1/4 cups.)

Nancy Silverton's Deep Dish Apple Pie (Do not be deceived by the nature of the website.  I actually own the cookbook from which this is taken, though I've only tried two recipes so far.  This has to be one of the most complicated desserts I've ever made, as well as the most intense apple pie I've ever eaten.  It's certainly worth making...maybe once a year.)

Saturday, June 25, 2011

Culinary adventures

Given the vast (read "slightly more than usual") amount of free time we have this summer, a couple friends and I decided to spend a leisurely Saturday afternoon in the kitchen. We were interested in trying out this recipe for homemade ricotta, and, also anxious to use up a pound of CSA chard, decided to cook up a Swiss Chard Lasagna with Ricotta and Mushroom.  For dessert we had Apfelstrudel, which I learned to make from an Austrian friend whose grandmother taught her.  I've vowed not to write down a recipe (and I don't even know know specific ingredient amounts), always relying on my learning experience.  Let me know if you'd like me to pass it on to you!





















Making the ricotta cheese was very easy.  You boil milk and cream to a certain temperature, stir in lemon juice, let it sit, and then strain.  After an hour or two we were left with about 16 oz. of cheese and a few cups of whey.  We used some of the whey in place of water in a loaf of white bread, but it has many culinary uses, and even as the basis for a soda in the cheese-making-and-thus-whey-overload-having country of Switzerland.




















The  lasagna turned out quite well though incredibly rich (especially with the homemade ricotta).  I actually like and recommend this other (and lighter) vegetable lasagna just as much.  The new recipe had the very interesting addition of nutmeg to the sauce, and I think that would work quite well in either recipe.  One could also replace the spinach with chard in the latter and add mushrooms.

Thanks friends for your hard work!!

Tuesday, June 21, 2011

Tales of an Italian grocery, Austrian wine, Polish sausage, and chard.

Today I headed down to the local farmers' market to pick up some eggs, a basil plant, and to get a knife sharpened by a man who claims to be one of only two knife-sharpeners in town (and he says he often gets dissatisfied customers from the other guy!).  After acquiring said items and achieving said knife-sharpness, I ventured across the street to a small grocery that I'd frequently passed and always written off as a small store that probably didn't carry much and overall was probably not great.  You see, contrary to my expectations, I'd seen it referenced online as a great little Italian shop.  And indeed it is.  This place is immaculate inside, and carries all kinds of imported goods as well as the basics.  Shelf after shelf of cheeses and wines, pastas and sauces.  Organic dairy and meat products.  I discovered that they carried two different Grüner Veltliners, an Austrian wine that I'd recently heard about and was eager to try. (It lived up to my expectations, especially in pairing well with a variety of foods.  See this interesting article on the wine.)  I only wonder now if biking to the farmers' market (and this grocery) is out of the question, seeing as I'll probably be returning with more than in the past.

Thus armed with a 2009 Laurenz Singing Grüner Veltliner, parmesan, and pasta, and knowing that CSA chard and garlic scapes awaited me in my refrigerator, I set off on the seas of the internet in search of a recipe.  I wound up making Pasta with Kielbasa and Swiss Chard, and it turned out quite well.  Below is the recipe with my adaptations.



Pasta with Kielbasa and Swiss Chard

adapted from Gourmet

  • 3/4 pound Swiss chard (1 bunch)
  • 1/2 pound kielbasa, quartered lengthwise, then cut crosswise into 1/2-inch-thick pieces
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1/2 teaspoon sea salt
  • 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped (or 3 garlic scapes, chopped; if using scapes, cook them with the chard stems)
  • 1/2 cup water
  • 1/2 teaspoon dried hot red-pepper flakes
  • 1/2 pound penne
  • 1/4 cup white wine
  • 1/2 cup grated Parmesan, plus more for serving

Begin boiling salted water for pasta.  Wash chard leaves.  Cut out center ribs and stems and chop into 1/2 inch pieces. Chop leaves coarsely.  Begin cooking pasta, being sure to reserve 1/4 cup cooking water before draining.

Cook kielbasa in oil in a 5-quart heavy pot over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until golden, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer with a slotted spoon to a bowl. Cook chard ribs and stems with salt in fat remaining in pot (add a bit more olive oil if necessary) over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, about 3 minutes. Add garlic and cook, stirring, 1 minute. Add chard leaves, water, and red-pepper flakes and simmer, partially covered, until chard stems are tender, about 5 minutes. Remove lid and stir in kielbasa. 

Add pasta to chard mixture with cheese, wine, and salt to taste and toss until combined well. Thin with some of reserved pasta water if necessary.  Serve with extra cheese.

Remember Those Radishes?

Remember those radishes I got from my CSA?  Well I ate one raw, and was again reminded that I really don't like to eat radishes.  I discovered that you can cook them in various ways (sauté, boil, steam, roast, etc.) and it removes their characteristic bite.  Some folks might think this removes the reason to eat a radish in the first place, but I'm glad to have found a way I can eat them.  It's better than a slow death by rotting in the vegetable bin!  You'll find the first recipe I tried below.  If my farmer shows up with more radishes on Thursday there's another recipe I have in mind.  This one worked out pretty well, though.



Butter-Braised Radishes with Their Greens

Adapted from The Flexitarian Table

1 large bunch of radishes
3 T butter
1 tsp brown sugar
1/2 tsp sea salt
1 T white wine vinegar
Freshly ground black pepper
Freshly grated nutmeg.

Cut leaves from radishes, leaving about a 1/2 inch of greens on the radishes.  Wash greens and chop very coarsely. (I accidentally neglected the latter part of that! I do think it would bet better with the greens chopped slightly, otherwise they come out rather stringy).  Cut larger radishes in half or even quarters, if necessary, to achieve uniform size.

In a medium saucepan (I think I used about a 7-inch one, after first starting with something way too big [see photo]) melt the butter, brown sugar and salt over medium heat, then add the water and radishes and bring to boil. Lower heat and simmer until radishes are slightly cooked (so they can be pierced with little pressure with a knife but not mushy), about 3-5 minutes.

Place greens over the radishes, cover pan, and simmer gently until greens are emerald color and tender, about 5 minutes.  Remove greens and radishes and transfer to a bowl.  (It's good to get as much liquid out of the greens if possible, placing them on paper towels or draining them in a colander.  Just don't discard the liquid!)

Add vinegar, pepper, and nutmeg to the pan liquid and boil uncovered until it becomes syrupy, about 5 minutes (They originally said two minutes, but that was certainly not long enough.  I was never pleased with the consistency and might even use some cornstarch next time to artificially thicken it). Season to taste with salt and/or sugar.  Coat the radishes and greens with the sauce and serve.

Thursday, June 9, 2011

Landwirtschaftsgemeinschaftshof

Today I picked up the first supply of produce from a local farm that a couple friends and I are supporting through a Community-Supported Agriculture (CSA) program.  That word in the title is the German equivalent;  I can't quite put my finger on a good translation, but it means something like agricultural-community-farm.  CSA originally developed in Germany, Switzerland, and Japan in the 1960s.  The idea is that a group of consumers get together and provide financial support for a local farm at the beginning of the growing season, and in return are provided with seasonal produce for a set number of weeks.  CSA is good for the farmer because it spreads out the inherent risk in farming between all of the "subscribers" and also drastically reduces marketing and distribution costs.  We subscribers agree to take whatever the farm grows--unfortunately, that means I might have to learn to like radishes.  But ultimately we get high quality, seasonal, organic produce (even if it's not officially certified, it usually measures up to the requirements) from a member of our own community that we see on a weekly basis.  And did I say that it's fresh?  And delicious?  Everything I got today was picked only a few hours earlier on a farm only a few miles away--lettuce, spinach, radishes (she suggested sauteing the greens in olive oil and garlic; I might try this, too), chives, parsley, oregano, cucumbers, scallions, and snow peas.

It's only the beginning of the season, so check out www.localharvest.org to find your own local CSA.  I'm a firm believer!