I mentioned earlier the politics, esthetics, and ethics of food. But to speak of the pleasure of eating is to go beyond those categories. Eating with the fullest pleasure — pleasure, that is, that does not depend on ignorance — is perhaps the profoundest enactment of our connection with the world. In this pleasure we experience and celebrate our dependence and our gratitude, for we are living from mystery, from creatures we did not make and powers we cannot comprehend. ~Wendell Berry
Tuesday, August 30, 2011
Green Beans, Take 2
I was headed home today daydreaming about making szechuan green beans, but when I actually got back, in a sheer fit of laziness (not wanting to walk an extra 20 feet to grab my computer and look up my recipe), I decided to look for recipes in the cookbooks by the kitchen. Am I ever glad that I did. The second book I pulled off the shelf was More Best Recipes by the folks of Cook's Illustrated/America's Test Kitchen. In this book series (I'm told that their Best 30-Minute Recipe is one of the top cookbooks around), the editors take a fairly common food and, through dozens and dozens of test runs and experiments, come up with the perfect, foolproof recipe.
Well, after checking the index, I discovered that a full four pages were devoted to green beans, both sauteed and roasted. The common problem they saw with the former was that by the time the beans were cooked, the outsides were usually black and burnt. Their solution? Saute the green beans for six minutes, add a small bit of water and cover the pan, thus steaming them for two minutes, then uncover and turn up the heat to evaporate any leftover water, and finish sauteeing along with the flavorings/spices for two more minutes. The result? Perfection. Just the right amount of browning and wrinkling, fully cooked, yet still with a crisp bite.
Luckily for you, this recipe (along with variations, but without the long explanation of the recipe's development) is online! I made the first variation, with smoked paprika and almonds.
Cook's Illustrated Sauteed Green Beans with Garlic and Herbs
Labels:
cookbooks,
CSA,
gluten-free,
green beans,
summer,
vegetables
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Green beans are one of the most glorious of foods; they are healthy and satisfyingly crunchy (when not rendered an inedible paste at the bottom of a pan), yet can be paired with virtually any kind of meat or flavouring.
ReplyDeleteI believe green beans ought to join rice as a staple food.
Only greener.